Adobe Photoshop Tips and Tutorials
When one opens Adobe Photoshop for the first time it can be an overwhelming and confusing experience.
Within these pages and through some useful tips and tutorials I will attempt to reveal some of the mysteries
and secrets hidden within the many pallets and menus of Photoshop.
The information found here will follow my exact work flow that I use when I process a photo. You will be able to
follow from beginning to end using the exact methods and techniques that I use when I edit my photos.
With that being said we must realize that there are many different methods
used to accomplish the same end results in Photoshop. For instance one
might want to adjust the brightness in a photo using "Brightness/Contrast"
sliders, "Layers", or "Curves". Which method is correct? Can't the same
thing be accomplished using any one of the three methods? What about
using all three methods or maybe just two? There is no right or wrong
way to edit a photo in Photoshop. There are methods that are easier
than others. There are methods that will allow one to go back and "tweak"
a previous adjustment. One thing that we definitely want to avoid is the
merciless destruction of pixels! For instance one might be tempted to use
the "Brightness/Contrast slider to adjust the brightness of a photo - it just
makes sense, doesn't it? Well, not so fast. Such "global" adjustments are
a merciless way to destroy those pixels that you paid big bucks for when
you bought your digital camera! The results would probably be OK for the
72dpi requirements of a computer monitor or the Web. However, when you
are required to produce a 220dpi to 300dpi image at 13x19 inches or
larger, you will need a higher pixel survival rate!
So, that would imply that every time we begin to edit a photo we should have some kind of idea what the end result will
be. Perhaps the most important consideration is the size that the photo will need to be when the post-processing is
complete. Is this photo going to be used on the Web, or will it be printed on fine art paper at high resolution? Maybe
it will be used for both. A photo for the Web will only need to have a final resolution of 72dpi. Any higher resolution
than that will result in a larger file size, a waste of bandwidth and a waste of storage space. While some may argue
the following point, I will say that 220dpi is the minimum resolution that would be required to print a high quality fine art
print. Some would say 300dpi is the minimum. I will not get into all of that here but I will say that it is very important
that as many of the originally captured pixels as possible should survive the editing process!
1. Leveling The Horizon. The first thing I will look at in an image after determining the output size is to ensure
that the image is LEVEL. This is a big thing with me. I have seen some outstanding images only to notice that
the "horizon" is not level. A great shot of a sunset at the beach can be ruined by having the ocean flowing uphill!
2. Highlights, Shadows, Accurately find the lightest pixel (highlight), and the darkest pixel (shadow), on any
image. (The easy way!)
6. Filters - You know, I RARELY use filters on my camera (except for a U.V. Filter to protect the lens). Photoshop
can duplicate the effects of most filters with the exception of a polarizer.
MY WORK FLOW (working in Layers)
7. Image resizing and saving.
Divine Elegance
4-1983
are welcome!
As a reminder, all of my photographs are Copyright ©Tommy Simms. If you are
interested in using any of my photos, please feel free to contact me.
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8. Sharpening - The final step just before printing.
What's
I work all of my photos using adjustment layers. This
allows me to save the image as layered Photoshop
Document (PSD). With this approach I am able to get
back into the photo at a later date and make changes to
any particular adjustment that I have made. Since I am
constantly learning new editing techniques this is a
handy feature when I want to "re-work" an image.
Warning: PSD files can be extremely large! It is not
unusual for me to finish a photo and end up with a 100
Meg file!

To the right is a typical example of a Layers Palette that
I might have when I edit an image. The word here is
versatility. I can instantly see the before and after
effects of a particular adjustment by clicking on the
"eyeball" looking icon along the left side of the palette.
This action alternately activates and deactivates a layer
adjustment. I can also adjust the "Opacity (just under
the "paths" tab at the top of the dialogue box). Opacity
adjusts the "strength" of the effect of a particular layer
adjustment. Experiment!
Typical Layers Palette in Photoshop
Let's get to it!